Freshwater Fishing Basics

As you stroll down the fishing aisles, there are many
different types of line to choose from, and it can be very confusing to say the least.
I hope that after reading this, you’ll have a good understanding of fishing line.

Fishing Line Your connection to the Fish

Fishing line can be a complicated subject, but
it doesn’t have to be. Let’s start with a basic rule in mind:

When you’re buying line or any equipment, match the gear to the conditions your fishing.

With that said, you’ll need to find out a few things before purchasing line.

What kind of fish are you after?

• Are you after small ones such as Crappie, Perch or Bluegill ?
• Bigger fish such as Bass or maybe your after the ones with big teeth such as Walleye or Pike.
• What is the body of water like? Does it have large amounts of vegetation, rocks etc?

With regards to this question, you may not know so you’ll have to do some investigating, Still unsure? Then stick to a general fishing line from a major manufacturer, and you should be O.K.

By answering these questions you start matching equipment to the conditions.

For example, if the body of water you want to fish on has lots of weeds, you will need a stronger line to get your bait through the weeds because a weaker line may break.

I’ve tried to break them down into three basic categories. These are ourown categories, some purists might argue with me, but I like to keep things simple.

A short introduction to the types of line

Monofilament- (Also called mono) It’s the most common type of line, and typically it comes in either clear or green. If you buy a pre-spooled reel, chances are it was spooled with this type of line. One thing to keep in mind, is memory. When line is uncoiled (by casting) it tries to maintain the shape of the spool. This coiling after the cast is Memory. It will wreak havoc on you in the form of not being able to cast, tangles, pure frustration etc. To avoid this, be sure to re-spool your line at least once a year. Monofilament is a great all purpose fishing line that can be used anywhere..

Monofilament is listed on the package, by terms such as mono or monofilament.

Super lines-These include Fusion and Braided type lines. Some of the more common ones are Spiderwire, Fire Line, and PowerPro. In this case, the materials are either braided or fused together to make a single strand of line. What’s produced by the process, is a super strong line with a much smaller diameter than it’s monofilament competitor. For example, if you were to purchase a 12 lb test monofilament line, the diameter would be listed. With super lines, the package might list 24 lb test line with 12 lb diameter. These lines tend to be more sensitive and have little or no stretch to them.

Listed on the box, you’ll see such terms as “fusion”, “braided”, “ultra sensitive”, or “minimal stretch”.

Fluorocarbons-. These lines look like monofilament but, are virtually invisible underwater. They have very little stretch which can lead to better hooksets. This type of line is best suited for the same conditions as monofilament. Berkley’s Vanish is an example of a Fluorocarbon line. These types of lines do well in clear water and when there is heavy fishing pressure.

When it comes to comparing Monofiliment, Fluorocarbon line:

• Has less stretch
• Has increased abrasion resistance
• Sinks faster than monofiliment
• Doesn’t absorb water, therefore it retains 100% of it’s dry tensile strength
• Is virtually invisible under water

Now that you know a little about the different types of line, the fishing conditions and what your after, it’s time to tackle the label. Listed below are several of the more common features that show up on the boxes of fishing line.

Understanding what the terms mean

Test Strength- This is the breaking strength of the line. Meaning, with how much force does the fish fight with before the line breaks. You’ll see this listed right on the front of the box. This seems to
be the first thing people think about when choosing a line. The label will say something like 12 LB Test or 6 LB Test. The larger the number, the stronger the line. Oh, one more thing, test strength has nothing to do with the weight of the fish, only the amount of the fight. There are so many fishing line strengths to choose from, it’ll make your head spin…..

When fighting a fish, make sure your rod tip is up and that the rod is slightly bent. When the rod is bent, the force of the fight is being transferred from the line to the rod. This is one reason people land big fish on light line. The object is to keep the fish’s head up and the line taunt. I don’t want to get ahead of myself.

Diameter- Is the thickness of the line. It effects the running depth of your lure. Remember, as you work your lure, you’re also moving water at the same time. The larger the diameter, the more water is
being moved. A thicker line moves more water than a thinner line. This means that your bait will actually run deeper with thinner line! Diameter also relates to how much of a particular line your reel can hold.

Stretch- Stretch is primarily meant for monofilament. If the line doesn’t stretch, it will break. Super lines have minimal or no stretch, but typically don’t break when fighting fish. They’re so strong fish will break before the line does. The label will include terms like “Low Stretch“, “Controlled Stretch” or “Minimal Stretch“.

Abrasion Resistance- How tough is it? Can it withstand being dragged over rocks, stumps, bitten by fish and not break? Words on the package might be “High Abrasion Resistance” “Extra Tough“. Unless your going to be fishing heavy cover, such as rocks and submerged tree stumps, don’t let abrasion resistance factor into your decision about what line to purchase.

Knot strength- Knots weaken the line, because the line is wrapped back on itself and tightened down. Certain knots can decrease line strength. Advertising on the package will include terms such as “Superior Knot Strength”
Last but not least, stick to the major brands. Brands such as Berkley, Spiderwire, and Stren. You may pay more, but it’s worth it. You’ve already spent hard earned money purchasing your reel, and possibly even your rod, why try to save money on the most important piece of equipment? The piece that connects you to the fish!

As you can see, there are many types of line on the market to choose from. Ultimately, you have to decide what is important for your type of fishing, is it test strength, stretch or another factor? I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. When you’re buying line or any equipment, match the gear to the conditions your fishing. No one line is the “right” line for all types of fishing. You may have to experiment with several lines to find the one you like best. Remember, fishing is a personal sport. A sport where feel means virtually everything.
I hope this article was helpful and you enjoyed reading it.

© 2005 – 2007, Scott Gaines. All rights reserved.